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Articles
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Our Inate Need for
Cosmetics
By Fiona Gordon
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Our society is preoccupied with the "culture of beauty",
which includes the notion that our skin must always look
young and appear free from blemish. Our psychological
well-being is often closely enmeshed with perceptions of how
our skin appears to ourselves and others. We define our
self-image to include the visible representation of our skin
to others, so as a result, it has become the "primary canvas
on which our cultural and personal identity is drawn".
Cosmetic companies set aside concepts of natural beauty so
that flaws such as large pores, fine lines and wrinkles are
brought to the fore, influencing our spending habits in
pursuit of flawless skin.
In the animal kingdom, most male species are endowed with
colourful physical attributes so that a less colourful, but
wisely camouflaged female mate will be attracted to it.
Humans do not have equivalent ornamentation, so women use
cosmetics, specifically make-up, to decorate their faces to
attract prospective mates.
The Need for Cosmetics.
A cosmetic is any substance which, when applied, results in
a temporary, superficial change. We use a myriad of
cosmetics on our skin, from moisturizers to lipstick.
Make-up alters our visual appearance by enhancing our facial
features through the artistic application of colour. It can
beautify the face and be used to express our sense of self
to others. Make-up can hide blemishes, scars, under-eye
circles or even out our skin tone. It can boost self-esteem,
make us feel more attractive and increase our social
acceptability in some social situations. Using make-up can
contribute to a well-groomed image, which positively
influences our confidence, self-esteem, health and morale.
Skin care cosmetics treat the surface layer of the skin by
providing better protection against the environment than
skin left untreated.
Creams treat the skin's surface by imparting moisture to the
skin cells on the outermost layer of the skin. It also forms
a thin barrier which traps moisture underneath, thereby
preventing the evaporation of water from the skin's surface.
Creams also accelerate the hydration of skin cells on the
outer layer, giving the skin a temporarily smooth, plump
appearance.
Exfoliants improve the appearance of the skin by sloughing
away flaky skin, blackheads and some dead skin cells.
Astringents improve skin tone and texture by swelling the
pore walls so dirt and debris do not collect within.
Soaps loosen particles of dirt and grime by dissolving the
greasy residue left on the skin from natural skin oils,
creams and make-up.
The Physiology of the Skin and How Cosmetics Affect Skin
Function.
Skin is made up of three main layers: the epidermis, the
dermis and the hypodermis.
The epidermis is the only layer we can see with our eyes and
as we age, remarkable changes occur which are hidden from
our view. For instance, the skin gradually thins over time,
especially around the eyes. Some cosmeceuticals can
minimally re-thicken the skin, but the process of
thinning is inevitable. Elastin and collagen, located in the
dermis keep the skin resilient and moist, but with ageing
these fibres break down to create lines and wrinkles.
Exposure to ultraviolet radiation accelerates this process,
and since few cosmetics can actually reach the dermis, the
idea that a cosmetic can reverse this process is unfounded.
The best way to prevent fine lines and wrinkles is to limit
our exposure to the sun and ultraviolet radiation.
The skin is a highly complex, dynamic tissue system. One
square inch of the skin is composed of 19 million cells, 625
sweat glands, 90 oil glands, 65 hair follicles, 19 000
sensory cells and 4 metres of blood vessels. The outermost
layer of the epidermis is called the cornified layer, and is
made of sheets of keratin, a protein, and squames, dead,
flat skin cells. It is our barrier against dehydration from
the environment. It receives its primary supply of moisture
from the underlying tissue, since constant contact from the
external environment tends to dry out the skin's surface.
When the skin is exposed to dry conditions, the cornified
layer can become dry, brittle, firm and if untreated, it can
crack and lead to infection. Creams create a waxy barrier to
prevent dehydration and keep the skin moist and supple.
Underneath the cornified layer lie six more layers of the
epidermis responsible for cell generation. The life cycle of
skin cells within this layer takes approximately 28 days, so
it may take three to four weeks to observe any changes at
the skin's surface from using a new cosmetic.
The skin surface is also home to millions of healthy
micro-organisms which increase our immunity to pathogenic,
or disease-causing bacteria. Thus, our desire to sterilize
the skin also destroys beneficial bacteria, such as
streptococcus mutans, and micrococcus luteus . Toners, for
instance, are beneficial in keeping bacterial populations
down, thus reducing acne flare-ups resulting from microbes
which invade and proliferate in the pores. Overuse of
anti-microbial agents can produce harmful results when too
many beneficial bacteria are destroyed, allowing pathogenic
bacteria to multiply unchecked on the skin.
The skin also produces antimicrobial proteins, two of which
are called defensins and cathelicidins, which increase when
the skin is damaged. Perspiration, necessary for the
maintenance of internal body temperature, also excretes a
germicidal protein called dermicidin to combat bacteria
producing body odour.
Deodorants also assist in keeping the bacterial population
down, thus decreasing the odours produced as they feed on
the waste matter excreted by the sweat glands. Research has
shown that people who wash excessively are more prone to
infection and eczema as a result of 'washing" away natural
bacteria and germicides too frequently.
The Effect of Natural and Synthetic Cosmetic Ingredients
on the Skin.
A natural substance is any plant or animal extract, rock or
mineral which is obtained from the earth. An artificial or
synthetic substance is a substance which has been modified
through chemical reactions in an industrial process. We use
a myriad of cosmetics on our skin, but before
we use these beauty aids, three essential questions should
be asked:
What is the composition of the cosmetic?
Why is each ingredient used?
Do the ingredients have positive or negative effects on the
skin and body?
Many products claim to be safe or even may appear to be
safe, but beyond the short-term benefits of using the
cosmetic, are there any long term effects from daily
absorption of its use? Skin used to be considered an
impermeable barrier, but transdermal drugs have proven that
the opposite is true; the skin allows many substances to
pass through its layers into the bloodstream.
Several factors affect the rate with which the skin will
absorb various cosmetic ingredients. The condition of the
skin, such as whether it is dry or damaged will increase
absorption. Cuts, acne or abrasions also increase
absorption. Other ways to absorb cosmetic ingredients is to
inhale them, such as with hairspray or talcum powder, or
through the mucous membranes.
Moist substances are most readily absorbed and powders are
absorbed the least by the skin. Many products claim to
address a skin issue, such as acne or dry skin, but contain
ingredients which exacerbate these problems. For instance,
acne treatments may contain comedogenic, or pore-clogging
ingredients. Creams that are supposed to treat dry skin may
actually strip the skin of its natural oils which are useful
in preventing dryness. Some contain chemicals which seep
through the skin and dissolve skin oils and defat the skin.
A growing trend is chemical sensitivity, which can develop
at any time, even after long term use of the same product.
The ingredients in many cosmetics cause 20% of the
population (U.S. data, Erickson, 2002) to develop the
symptoms of chemical sensitivity. Other cosmetics emphasize
more traditional skin treatments with few of these harsh
effects, acknowledging that short term beauty does not
balance with long term hazards to health.
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| Fiona Gordon is a Business Manager and
National Educator for Vincent Davianny in Australia and New
Zealand. Fiona has many years experience in the beauty
industry, as an owner of salons, and with international
training and experience. She brings to our industry a wealth
of resources on health and wellbeing, and also on salon
management. Fiona can be contacted at
www.vincentdavianny.com.au |
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