Beauty Ingredients

A

Acetamide MEA
Water soluble conditioning agent compatible with anionic and nonanionic systems as opposed to quaternary surfactants compatible only with cationics, adds shine.

Alcohol
A general term for organic ingredients that contain the OH (hydroxyl) group. Alcohols differ substantially in their properties ranging from water soluble solvents like isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol,
ethyl alcohol (used by breweries, the only drinkable alcohol) through moisturizing agents like glycerine or propylene glycol to fatty alcohols like cetyl alcohol and sugars (multi alcohols).

Algae Extract
Extracted from seaweed and pond scum, rich in minerals, algae extract is claimed to prevent wrinkles, very moisturizing.

Algal Polysaccharides
Extract from red marine algae gathered off the Hawaiian coast known for its moisturizing potential and lubricant.

Allantoin
Water soluble crystal known for its ability to help heal wounds and skin ulcers and to stimulate the growth of healthy tissue.

AMP (Amino ethyl Propanol)
An organic pH adjuster used to maximize the effects of styling products.

Ammonium Lauryl Sulphate
The ammonium salt of lauryl sulphate derived from the natural coconut alcohols, it is a mild anionic surfactant widely used at acidic (mild) pH values.

Amphoteric Surfactants
Those in which the active molecule bears both positive and negative charges. Their properties depend upon the pH of the system and they may behave like anionic or cationic. Some of the finest amphoterics are used in shampoo systems formulated for dry or chemically treated hair due to their mildness and light conditioning properties.

Annatto Extract
A food grade vegetable dye from a tropical tree, yellow to orange.

Annionic Surfactants
Those in which the active molecule bears a negative electric charge. These surfactants are primarily used as cleansing agents in relatively mild shampoos for oily or normal to oily hair.

B

Beet Extract
Extract from the stem base of the beet used for its reddish colour.

Benzophenone - 3 and 4
A sunscreen that blocks UV - A rays.

Beta Carotene
Found in all plant and many animal tissues, beta carotene is extracted as red crystals or crystalline powder, used as colouring in cosmetics. Also used in the manufacture of Vitamin A. Used also as antioxidant.

Biotin
A naturally occurring vitamin H. Some studies show that it has a positive effect on hair growth when taken internally.

Boric Acid
An inorganic acid, and mild antiseptic, and preservative.

Butylene Glycol
Organic humectant, similar to propylene glycol.

C

Caramel
Used as a coloring in cosmetics and a soothing agent in lotions. Produced by heating sugar or glucose and adding small amounts of alkali or a trace mineral acid during heating.

Carbomer 940
An organic gelling agent.

Carrageenan
Natural thickening agent.

Cationic Surfactants
Those in which the active molecule bears a positive charge. These sufactants usually have strong conditioning properties and are used in conditioners, moisturizing treatments and paks. Cationics
often have antimicrobial properties (germicides).

Ceteareth - 5
An emollient and emulsifier. See Cetyl Alcohol.

Cetearyl Alcohol
A mixture of fatty alcohols derived from coconut oil consisting predominantly of cetyl and stearyl alcohols. Used as emollients, thickeners and emulsion stabilizers.

Ceteth - 2
A polyethylene glycol derivative of cetyl alcohol. Water soluble. Emollient and conditioning agent and emulsifier.

Ceteth - 20
See ceteth - 2.

Cetrimonium Bromide
A cationic conditioning agent and antiseptic widely used in the pharmaceutical industry. Due to its high cost, it is rarely used in cosmetics. Adds shine.

Cetrimonium Chloride
Quaternary conditioning agent, similar to cetrimonium bromide, but more suitable for water systems.

Cetyl Alcohol
A natural fatty alcohol derived from coconut oil widely used as an emollient and stabilizing agent in conditioning and moisturizing treatments (emulsions).

Cetyldimonium Chloride
Used often as a conditioning agent, compatible with sufactants, often used in shampoos.

Chloroxylenol
A crystalline, water soluble substance used as an antiseptic, germicide and fungicide. Penetrates skin. No known toxicity in humans when diluted below 20%.

Citric Acid
A natural, edible organic acid used to adjust pH, one of the natural hydroxy acids derived from citrus fruits.

Citric Acid USP
see Citric Acid

Cocamide DEA
Shampoo thickener and foam stabilizer derived from coconut fatty acids. Also assists in removal of fatty soils.

Cocamide MEA
(see Cocamide DEA) - Mono - amide (MEA) as opposed to diamide (DEA).

Cocamidopropyl Betaine
An amphoteric surfactant used as a cleanser. Known for its mild conditioning properties. Derived from coconut fatty acids.

Coco Betaine
(see Cocamidopropyl Betaine)

Cyclomethicone
A silicone derivative. Adds luster and sheen.

D

DEA Oleth - 3 Phosphate
An emulsifier that prevents separation of product. Adds shine.

DEA Oleth - 10 Phosphate
An emulsifier derived from oleic acid, an unsaturated fatty acid.

Deionized Water
Water purified by deionization technique based on removal of highly active ions especially positively charged cations like calcium (Ca++) magnesium(MG++) and iron (Fe++) and (Fe+++).

Diazolidinyl
A cosmetic preservative.

Dicetyldimonium Chloride
(see Cetyldimonium Chloride)

Dimethicone
A silicone derivative. Adds luster and sheen.

Dimethicone Copolyol
Same as above and is water soluble.

Dimethyl Lauramine Isostearate
Conditioning and emulsifying agent.

Dimethyl Stearamine
Conditioning and emulsifying agent.

E

EDTA (Ethylene Diamine Tetra Acetic Acid)
A sequestering (chelating) agent with unique properties of "neutralizing" trace metals (like calcium,
iron and magnesium salts, etc.) and other deposits on hair.

Ethyl Ester PVM/MA Copolymer
Humidity resistant, non - tacky polymer.

Ethoxydiglycol
Viscosity decreasing agent.

Essential Oils
Used for fragrance, as an antiseptic, germicide and a
natural preservative. Derived from natural plant oil.

G

Glyceryl Monstearate
An emollient, emulsifier derived from natural stearic acid and glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate
An emulsifier.

Glycolic Acid
Derived from sugar cane juice, used to adjust pH in products and as an exfoliant and moisturizer.

Glycol Stearate
See Glyceryl Monostearate.

Grapeskin Extract
The extract of the pulp of Vitis Vinifera, used as a coloring.

Green Tea Extract
A natural extract of Japanese green tea that has antioxidant and antibacterial properties.

Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
Naturally derived from Guar tree, cationic conditioning agent used frequently in shampoos.

H

Hyaluronic Acid
It is the most effective moisturizing agent known to science today. It holds 500 times its own weight of water. This spectacular humectant is derived by bacterial fermentation. It is
effective in concentrations as low as 20 ppm ( parts per million).

Hydrolyzed Human Hair Keratin Protein
Protein derived from human hair by enzymatic/acidic hydrolyzation.

Hydroxyethel Cellulose
Used as a thickener in creams and lotions.

Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose
Fibrous substance derived from the chief part of the cell walls of plants. Used as thickener and to give products uniform consistency and body.

I

Isobutane
Naturally occurring gas.

Isopropanol
An organic solvent of alcohol family. Used to solubilize resins and polymers. Also found in hair colors to dissolve the oxidation dyes.

Isopropyl Alcohol (Isopropanol)
An organic solvent of the alcohol family. Used to solubilize resins and polymers. Also found in hair colors to dissolve the oxidation dyes.

Isopropyl Palmitate
An ester of palmitic acid from coconut oil used to impart silkiness to the skin and hair.

J

Jojoba Oil
Partially unsaturated Jojoba Oil derived directly from the jojoba bean. Unbleached and chemically unchanged, it is used as a lubricant and sebum emulsifier.

L

Lactamide MEA
(see Acetamide MEA)

Lactic Acid
A natural, mild organic acid prepared by fermentation. Normally present in blood, sour milk, sauerkraut, pickles, and other food products made by bacterial fermentation. Used in cosmetics to adjust acid/alkali balance. Lactic acid is a primary component in the skin's natural buffer system.

Laureth - 3
It is the polyethylene glycol ether of Lauryl Alcohol, principal alcohol of coconut oil. It's modified to give it a "water loving" character. Used as an emollient and emulsifier.

Lecithin
From the Greek meaning "egg yolk". Natural antioxidant, emollient and emulsifier used in a variety of cosmetics. Egg yolk is 8 - 9% lecithin.

Lineolamido Propyl Ethydimonium Ethosulfate
Antistatic and hair conditioning agent

M

Magnesium Citrate
Magnesium salt of citric acid.

Methacryloyl Ethyl Betaine Methacrylates Copolymer
Part of cationic system. A fixative that is water soluble if washed within 48 hours after application. Used for stiffness and high gloss in hairsprays.

Methylchloroisthiazolinone
A preservative used in shampoos to replace formaldehyde.

Methylisothiazolinone
Used with above as a preservative in shampoos to replace formaldehyde.

Methyl Paraben
Preservative derived from benzoic acid. Usually used in emulsions in conjunction with propyl paraben. It's non - toxic and approved for use in foods. It is effective against a wide range of
bacteria and fungi. Contrary to popular belief, it is not a wax. Recommended concentration in cosmetics 0.2 - 0.3%.

Myristalkonium Chloride
Derived from fatty acids, it has anti - static and moisturizing properties.

N

Niacinamide
Mild scalp stimulant with Vitamin B. Also used as a synergizing agent.

Nonionic Surfactants
Those in which the active molecule has no electric charge. Their properties vary widely, from very harsh cleansers (often found in commercial shampoos and rug cleaners) to coating and fiber softening agents found in balsams and rinses.

Nonoxynol 12
Used as a non ionic surface active agent and as a dispersing agent.

O

O - Cresol
White to reddish crystals used in the manufacture of dyes.

Octylacrylamide Acrylate Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer
Part of cationic system. A fixative that is water soluble if washed within 48 hours after application. Used for stiffness and high gloss in hair sprays.

Octylacrylamide Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer
(see Octylacrylamide Acrylate Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer)

Octyl Methoxycinnamate
A sunscreen that blocks UV - B rays that is derived from cinnamic acid.

Oleth 20
Organic perfume stabilizer, derived from unsaturated fatty acids.

Orange Peel Extract
Extract from "green" variety of oranges, very rich in natural elements. Used for colour.

P

Palm Kernelamide DEA and MEA
A mixture of ethanolamides of the fatty acids derived from palm kernel oil. Used as a conditioning agent and thickener for shampoos.

Panthenol
Member of the Vitamin B complex family used as a hair thickener and conditioning agent. During oxidation, it is converted to Vitamin B - 5 (pantheonic acid).

PEG - 100 Stearate
An emulsifier.

Pentacrythritol Tetra Caprate/Caprylate
Emulsifier derived from caprylic acid. Vegetable source.

Phenyl Trimethicone
Water resistant silicone, adds shine and flexibility.

Polyquaternium 11
A fixative with anti - bacterial properties. Adds hold and sheen in styling tools.

Polysorbate 20
A viscous, oily, water soluble liquid used to stabilize perfumes in water based preparations (like shampoos, etc.)

Polysorbate 80
A viscous liquid used to emulsify oils.

Potassium Sorbate
A mild food grade preservative found in cheese, wine, etc.

PPG 2 Isodeceth 12
An organic solubilixer of perfume oils and emulsifier.

Pristane
A saturated hydrocarbon found in natural oils

Propane
A natural propellant.

Propyl Paraben
A food grade preservative - see Methyl Paraben. It is often confused with paraffin.

Propylene Glycol Dicocoate
A mixture of propylene glycol esters of coconut fatty acids. Aids in removing unwanted "build - up" from hair.

PVM/MA Copolymer
A water soluble fixative used in hairsprays and styling tools.

PVP/VA Copolymer
A water soluble fixative used in hairsprays.

Pyroxidine HCL
Vitamin B6 used as a texturizer.

Q

Quaternium 15
A water soluble anti microbial agent active against bacteria.

S

Salicylic Acid
Broad spectrum antibacterial and fungicidal agent. Used externally as an antimicrobial/anti - acne agent and in anti - dandruff shampoos as the active agent. It is found in nature in several plants,
notably in sweet birch bark and wintergreen leaves (commercial sources are synthetic).

SD 40 Alcohol
Often listed as SDA40. It belongs to the alcohol family and is the only drinkable one specially denatured by adding bittering agents to make it not suitable for human consumption. It is used primarily in hair spray as a resin solvent.

SD Alcohol 40B
Same as above with different denaturants

Shea Butter
The natural fat obtained from the fruit of the Karite tree. Used as a replacement for lanolin.

Sodium Cetyl Sulfate
A derivative of saturated fatty alcohol. Water soluble.

Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate
An organic preservative derived from the amino acid glycine.

Sodium Laureth Sulfate
A derivative of polyethylene glycol and lauryl alcohol. It is much milder than sodium lauryl sulfate. It is also recommended for use in conjunction with other surfactants.

Sodium Myristoyl Sarcosinate
Very mild amphoteric surfactant. Excellent, very mild cleansing agent with light conditioning properties.

Sodium PCA
A powerful humectant (moisturizing agent). This natural moisturizer is found in stratum corneum and is part of the natural Moisturizing Factor of skin.

Sodium Thiosulfate
An inorganic salt, very reactive. Used to neutralize chlorine and other halogens.

Sorbitol
Humectant, moisturizing agent and lubricant. It has similar properties to glycerin but is more compatible to hair.

Stearalkonium Chloride
Cationic surfactant that has excellent substantivity to hair's keratin protein. Reduces static electricity by neutralizing electrical charges on hair. Good conditioning agent.

Stearamidopropyl Dimethyamine
A water soluble derivative of stearic acid. Possesses unique properties of closing hair cuticles over a wide range of pH.

Steareth 21
The polyethelyne glycol ethers of stearyl alcohol. The number indicates the degree of liquidity from 4 (thin) to 100 (solid). An emulsifier.

Stearic Acid
An organic fatty acid used as the basic ingredient to create O/W (oil in water) emulsions in conjunction with TEA. These emulsions are water soluble with good penetrating properties.

Stearyl Alcohol
A natural fatty alcohol, very similar to cetyl alcohol. (see cetyl alcohol) Derived from coconut oil.

Surfactant
Surface agents that have many cosmetic uses. For example, cleansers, wetting agents, emulsifiers, solubizers, conditioning agents and foam stabilizers.

T

TEA Laureth Sulfate
A triethanolamine salt of ethoxylated lauryl sulfate, an anionic surfactant compatible with amphoterics. A very effective, yet very mild, cleansing agent.

TEA Lauryl Sulfate
(similar to TEA Laureth Sulfate)

Tetrasodium EDTA
Same as sodium EDTA or Na - EDTA. It's a chelating agent (sequestrant) that reacts with sodium, calcium and magnesium salts found in hard water and "makes" them water soluble. Reduces build - up.

Triethanolamine (TEA)
An alkanomine used as part of an emulsion system in conjunction with organic acids like stearic acid. Also serves as a softener in hair spray.

Triethyl Citrate
Derived from citric acid. It gives pliability to fixatives.

Tyrosine
A building block of protein, tyrosine is the amino acid in hair that color adheres to.

V

Vinyl Acetate Crotonic Acid Neodecanate Copolymer
Hairspray fixative

X

Xanthan Gum
A highly molecular polysaccharide gum used as a thickener.